Amzkhssan Wall - Pinnacle Slab
The Pinnacle Slab on the Amzkhssan Wall offers around 130m of enjoyable climbing with little technical difficulty. The Amzkhssan Wall could be climbed hundreds of times without ever using the same holds. Although this particular route is only graded Diff, it should not be underestimated. Finding gear in the quartzite rock can be difficult and the leader can easily be enticed off the route in pursuit of placements, leading to serious rope drag quite quickly. In addition, route finding is more or less impossible to follow once on the wall. That said the climbing doesn’t go above V. Diff / Severe anywhere on the right side of the rock face. A confident leader with a mixed rack, particularly smaller gear, will be rewarded with enjoyable and easy climbing, an ideal option for a short warm up climb, especially given its easy approach and nearby parking.
The Route Topography
This is the route Pinnacle Slab on Amzkhssan Wall in Jebel el Kest, Morocco. It represents 130m of Qurtzite rock climbing, usually over 3 pitches, of a max grade of D 3b. Clicking the image will load the full screen high resolution Pinnacle Slab climb topo.
Original Image: our own image
Approach & Descent Information
Approach: Parking can be found on the higher side of the nearest hairpin bend. There is space for 2 cars. From here it’s a short walk around the corner to the base of the Amzkhssan Wall.
Descent: From the summit move over the back and trend North West (left with your back to the climb). This will allow the climbers an easy scramble down to a path that moves around the west side of the wall bringing climbers back towards the road.
Pitch By Pitch Information
The Pinnacle Slab starts about 10m right of the Amzkhssan Rib climb (graded V. Diff itself) which follows most obvious break up the middle of the wall. The goal is climb up to a small black overhang split by a crack, the climber passes this and heads up the wall to create a second anchor at the pinnacle, with the final pitch taking the easiest line through the steep overlap to the top.
Pitch 1 –50m
Start 10m right of the main break and a meter or two left from the outcropping bulge at the base of the wall. Climb up the slabs as far as the rope and any rope drag will allow, until you reach a suitable belay.
Pitch 2 –50m
Continue up the slab heading to the obvious pinnacle not too far from the top of the wall.
Pitch 3 –30m
There are a few options to get though the steeper overlap at the top. Take the easier line directly above the pinnacle to create the belay at the top of the wall.
Morocco Rock: Jebel El Kest & Taskra North - pg. 107
Morocco Rock offers great information for climbing on the Amzkhssan Wall. The descriptions and photography for his wall are both on the smaller side, but it’s still more than clear enough to get up the wall. The book overall also offers an incredible about of information on the routes and climbing in the Jebel El Kest.
Availible Here R.R.P. £ 27.5
Weather & Local Conditions
Seasonal Weather Information
Note that some weather stations are close or even on the mountain, others are in nearby towns. Plan accordingly!
Estimated Rainy Days Per Month
The graph shows the estimated average number of rainy days in the month that had more than 1mm rainfall or snow:
Estimated Temperature Per Month
Estimated average high and low temperature in degrees Celsius for the given month.
Listed Nearby Climbs
The are some top quality multi-pitch rock climbs nearby. Guidebooks (see above) will have a more comprehensive list of other local climbing venues.
Donkey Serenades on Lower Eagle Crag
270m climb graded VD 3c.
High Sierra on High Sierra Dome
120m climb graded VS 5a.
East Buttress on Ksar Rock
120m climb graded HS 4b.
There are currently over 40 published multi-pitch climbs on the site.
View All Listed Rock Climbs