Pigeon Rock - Virgo

Virgo is a brilliant 3 star Mourne multi-pitch classic. It has a short walk in and offers varied but quite consistent climbing at around VS grade all the way. There are some technical moves early on and some steep climbing on the last pitch. It has decent belay ledges at all points. Protection is mostly very good, with a slightly runout rising traverse in the middle on Pitch 3 (as described below). Pigeon Rock is a popular destination by Moune standards, but the route doesn't get much traffic in absolute terms so can need cleaning. Descent is by crossing a fence and walking off steeply to the south / left side of the crag (when facing it from below). Overall a very worthwhile route.

The Route Topography

This is the route Virgo on Pigeon Rock in Mourne and Down, Northern Ireland. It represents 90m of Granite rock climbing, usually over 4 pitches, of a max grade of VS 4c. Clicking the image will load the full screen high resolution Virgo climb topo.

Original Image: our own image

Approach & Descent Information

Approach: Park in the Pigeon rock car park behind a farm gate (make sure to close it). Then walk up and left, skirting the left side of the boulder field. The route starts on a ledge at the base of an obvious vertical crack.

Descent:Descent is by crossing a wire fence and walking off steeply to the south / left side of the crag (when facing it from below). This is particularly steep so care should be taken. An abseil descent is also possible but the abseil points (boulders / spikes with tat) likely need re-equipping.

See Pigeon Rock on the climb map Open climb location in Google Maps

Pitch By Pitch Information

Virgo is a brilliant route and the line and pitches described here are how it is commonly ascended, but it would be possible to connect pitch one and two here as per the Mourne mountain guidebook, but this can lead to rope drag.
Pitch 1 –10m 4a: From the starting ledge climb up to a crack to reach a large triangular block. Climb directly over this to create a belay just behind.
Pitch 2 –20m 4c: Climb directly above the belay to a good ledge under a slightly bulging rock / overhang. Pass under this to the left, then move diagonally up and left before eventually mantling onto a decent long ledge. A belay can be made on the far left side (wedged wire at the time of writing).
Pitch 3 –30m 4b: An exposed pitch with less strenuous, but still technical climbing. The pitch has little gear in the middle. The route goes up from the belay to the break (gear placement), before traversing right on small ledges with good footholds and acceptable handholds but no gear. The route then moves up the ledge system, back to the corner above and onto the grassy ledge. Move up this and belay below the corner of the final pitch.
Pitch 4 –30m 4c:Climb directly up this corner. Pass the first small block staying in the corner and keep moving up. Move onto the ledge to the left and under the large overhanging block / nose. Another ledge then takes climbers to the end of the technical difficulty where a long low crack line leads left. Follow this and move around it back right to belay above the corner (see topo).

References & additional links

The following links will take you to external websites specifically related to this climb: Virgo on Pigeon Rock.
Note: They contained relevant information at the time of publishing.

Climb Info: Ireland Climbing Wiki Pigeon Rock